Kitsch red and yellow chandeliers illuminate the stations in Pyongyang’s subway systems. The stations – which double as nuclear bunkers – all have names like ‘War Victory’ or ‘Revival’. “We are happy because we under the teaching and guidance of the great and dear leader,” recites a tour guide mechanically. Next to the dictator’s lush, green golf course are hard dry fields which should be rice paddies. Everyone looks malnourished and this is the most prosperous region; things are worse in the country, where even aid groups are prohibited. At the state opera, everyone has a smile for the camera. The irony is the children really are happy – or at least they think they are. Since they were born, they’ve been told repeatedly that life in North Korea is perfect – and there’s no outside news to spoil the illusion.