"If we don't change, we will be annihilated!" claims General Pastika, Indonesia's most famous policeman. "We cannot just talk. We need action." For thousands of years, Bali resisted the ravages of history. When Islam swept away Hinduism from the rest of Indonesia, Bali became a sanctuary for fleeing priests and artists. "Bali's cultural heritage needs special care", explains politician Nyoman Rudana. He's particularly concerned that the influx of foreign investors, snapping up cheap land, is destroying Bali's way of life. Now the Balinese are fighting back. They're demanding special autonomy from Jakarta. As Rudana explains "after the bomb, most Balinese opened their eyes. We feel special autonomy is necessary."