"Everybody drinks it. They all love it. Especially the mullahs", states one smuggler, loading his horse. At base camp in the Kurdish mountains, business is brisk. A caravan of horses stretch as far as the eye can see. "We sell lots of whisky and beer", states camp manager, Omer Mohamed Rassul. "From here, it's smuggled to Iran". Those who can't afford horses strap the whisky to their back. Over the years, hundreds have died on this route. "Iranian border guards started shooting at me", describes one man. "I tried to escape but ended up stepping on a landmine".