Virtually autonomous before it was annexed by the Serbs in 1990, Kosovo faces an escalation of violence. Until now Kosovo's 90% ethnic Albanians have opted for passive resistance as they try to live outside Serbian rule. Parallel to the Serbian state, they run schools and even a free medical service. "How long we are going to last I can't tell you", says Medical Centre Director Dr Demolli. His staff haven't been paid for three years. For Kosovo's mostly Muslim Albanians, even a marriage invites nationalistic fervour. Groom Adrian Pavataj and his new bride share their wedding with a painting of his father, killed in Serbian police custody. He ran schools for Albanians in their own language. Dulah Sallahu and brother Emin were dragged from their beds by Serbian police this year. Serbian Moma Trijkovic predicts Albanian defiance will lead towards war. In a 14th century Serbian monastery Images of Turkish brutality towards Christians adorn the walls. Many Serbs believe they are still the last bastion against Islam.

Produced by ABC Australia