"Jokowi is a breath of fresh air", says Meidyatama Suryodiningrat. "I think the main thing that he does offer is hope - for a clean and better governance." The man in question is Joko Widodo. He's seen as a cleanskin in a dirty-dealing business, with a no-nonsense, lead-by-example style. And if the most recent polls are correct, he could soon be president of this vast and chaotic country. But in spite of his popularity, outside a policy debate in Jakarta, his supporters are drowned out by a vocal oppostion. "The eagle is in my heart", the crowd chant. "Prabowo is my president. I am convinced today we'll win for sure!" The man they're cheering, Prabowo Subianto, is a divisive figure to say the least. A former general and commander of the notorious special forces under the Suharto regime, he is linked to murder, torture and kidnap. But with questions being raised over the track records of a number in Widodo's own entourage, the gap between them may not be as big as it first seemed.

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