Al Jazeera goes undercover to expose the ugly side of a $200bn industry. “I worked without sitting. Working on my feet for 14 hours a day,” says Abbas, a migrant worker who spent years under brutal conditions before joining a union. Now earning a legal wage, he fights for others trapped in the system. Union leader Luca Toscano explains that the factory owners are desperate to retain the Italian label for their products: “they keep production in Italy, but they bring the working conditions of China, Pakistan, Bangladesh”. While brands profit from sky-high retail prices, the suppliers face relentless cost-cutting pressures. “These conditions are so destructive and unfair that they force suppliers to resort to subcontractors”, explains Clean Clothes Campaign spokesperson Deborah Luchetti. Inside the factories, access to illegal contracts reveal the disturbing ways the owners manipulate their workers out of fair pay and decent working conditions.