In the tea fields of Zhe-Dschang, the sun rises over the mountains to reveal a postcard scene that would warm the heart of any health-food marketeer. In traditional dress men and women gaily pluck leaves from their lush family tea bushes. Tea production here is a traditional, small-scale affair that smacks of wholesome goodness. The end-product, green tea, is sworn by for its feel-good qualities. "Tea is Chi energy," they say. Westerners have rushed to buy in to the ancient health kick, purchasing green tea over allegedly less healthy common black tea, originating mainly in India. But while recent research indeed proves that tea does have surprising beneficial properties, it shows that green tea is no healthier than black tea. Just don't expect new market-orientated China to point that out.

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