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The land of Bulgaria was once one of the richest and most important centres in the Roman Empire. It's now a wasteland, plundered by illegal treasure hunters, fuelled by the black market museum trade.
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The sleepy Bulgarian villages of Pokrovan and Bardarski Geran seem the perfect models of tranquillity. Bread is baked daily, farmers tend their land and age-old traditions are adhered to. But a few decades ago the situation was completely different. Catholics were harassed by their Orthodox neighbours and persecuted as enemies of the state. The region was marred by bloody conflict. This week's be…
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